Chainwire fencing, also called cyclone or chain mesh fencing, is one of the most popular fences in Australia for good reason. It is metal wire woven into an open diamond mesh, and it is versatile enough to suit residential, commercial, rural and industrial jobs alike. But "chainwire" is not one product. It is a set of choices, and the right combination depends entirely on what the fence is for and where it sits.
Here is what actually goes into specifying a chainwire fence, so you can talk to any fencer knowing what the options mean.
Wire material
Chainwire is usually made from galvanised steel or aluminium wire.
- Steel is the workhorse. It is strong, holds its shape and stands up to weather, and it is the standard for security, commercial and high-traffic fencing. In coastal air it needs the right coating to fight corrosion.
- Aluminium is lighter, easier to handle and naturally resists corrosion, which makes it a good choice for lower-security domestic and public enclosures. It is not as strong as steel, so it suits jobs where security is not the main driver.
Coating
The coating is what keeps the wire from rusting, and it is one of the more important calls you will make.
- Galvanised mesh, coated in zinc, is the more economical option and fine for most inland jobs. Near the coast, salt in the air works away at a zinc coating faster.
- PVC (powder-coated) mesh costs more but adds a plastic layer over the zinc, which stands up far better to salt, chlorine and coastal conditions, and it comes in colours like black and green. For a fence near the coast, a pool or a chemical environment, it is usually worth the extra.
Most chainwire is built from 2.5mm hot-dip galvanised wire, with a heavier 3.15mm option for commercial jobs that need more grunt. Coatings are a big enough topic to have their own guide on powder coating and galvanising.
Gauge
Gauge is the thickness of the wire, and it sets the strength of the mesh. Thicker wire has a lower gauge number. Commercial and security fencing often runs a heavy gauge, while lighter temporary fencing can use a thinner, higher-gauge wire. The heavier the gauge, the harder the fence is to cut or force.
Roll height
Chainwire mesh comes in heights from around 600mm up to 3600mm. As a rough guide:
- 1200mm to 1800mm suits most residential fencing
- 1800mm to 2700mm suits jobs that need real security
- 3000mm to 3600mm suits tennis courts and sporting enclosures where you are containing a ball
Mesh, diamond and grid size
The size of the diamond openings affects both security and visibility. The most common diamond sizes are 50mm and 60mm, with anything from 25mm to 100mm available. A smaller mesh is harder to get a foothold or a hand into, so it suits industrial and high-security sites. A larger mesh is fine for a residential boundary. Recreational grounds usually sit in the middle.
Selvage
The selvage is how the top and bottom edges of the mesh are finished, and it matters more than most people expect.
- Knuckle selvage folds the wire over into a rounded edge. It is the safe choice for homes, schools and anywhere children or animals are about.
- Barb selvage leaves sharp points exposed to make the fence harder to climb, which suits commercial and high-security perimeters.
Knuckle/knuckle and knuckle/barb are usually stocked; barb/barb is often made to order.
Posts and rails
The mesh does not do the job on its own. It hangs off a framework of galvanised steel posts, and that framework is what gives the fence its strength.
- Terminal, corner, end and gate posts are heavier, because they carry the tension of the whole run.
- A top rail braces the posts and holds the top of the mesh in line.
- A bottom rail or tension wire stops the mesh being pushed out at the base and keeps people and dogs from sneaking underneath.
Posts commonly come in galvanised, black or green to match the mesh, with coloured finishes made to order.
Gates and toppings
Most chainwire fences need an opening. Gates run from around 1 metre to 6 metres wide, in matching mesh and height, with custom sizes made to order. Where extra security is wanted, several strands of barbed wire can be run above the mesh on the posts or on an extension clamp, subject to the local rules on barbed wire.
Customising a fence you already have
You are not locked in once a chainwire fence is up. A few of the common changes:
- Add a security topping. Barbed or razor wire can be run along the top later, either straight strands post to post or coiled, to lift the deterrent.
- Raise the height. Where posts are not set in concrete, longer posts can be sleeved over the existing ones and extra mesh added above the old line, which saves pulling the whole fence out.
- Add a coating. An existing galvanised fence can be given a PVC or powder-coat finish for colour and extra corrosion protection.
- Add privacy. Slats woven through the mesh, or shadecloth on the fence, screen the view without replacing the fence. Climbing plants do the same job over time.
- Mount on a wall. Chainwire can sit on top of a low brick or concrete wall for a stronger, part-solid boundary. This is easiest to plan before the fence goes in.
A note on standards
When you are specifying chainwire, look for products that meet the relevant Australian Standards, principally AS 1725.1 for chain-link fabric security fences and gates, and AS 2423 for coated steel wire fencing products. Meeting the standard is what tells you the mesh, coating and construction are up to the job rather than a cheap import that will sag inside a couple of years.
The takeaway
There is no single "best" chainwire fence, only the right specification for the site. Match the material and coating to the environment, the gauge and mesh to the security you need, and the height to the job, and you end up with a fence that does exactly what you want for decades. When you are weighing it all up, tell us what the fence is protecting and where it is going, and we will spec it to suit rather than sell you more fence than the job needs.